Bigelow, Martin and Switchback peaks guard a series of rolling meadows and valleys that lead toward Lake Chelan. Sawtooth Ridge is the geographical boundary between the Wenatchee National Forest and the Okanogan National Forest – along with the differences in land use philosophies between the agencies. This is a multi-use area that includes motorized vehicles which are allowed into Boiling Lake our camping destination.
Mt. Bigelow from Martin Peak and the jagged North Ridges
Bill and I had tried to climb Mt. Bigelow in early spring when the snow was quickly melting as the Eastside temperatures heated up. We climbed toward the South Ridge on Mt. Bigelow in an effort to gain the climbing route and were met by a line of large cornices above the snowfield that we would need to traverse under. Our alternatives were to climb to the North of Eagle Lake through the gulley that the guidebook recommended. The problem was the slope below the gully looked unstable. We decided to walk out.
The ridge that connects Mt. Bigelow and Raven Ridge
It was a good reconnaissance trip. I was able to get a good look at the area and realized that the route over Horsehead Pass was not the most direct way to climb Mt. Bigelow. Goldman makes a single sentence mention in her guide book that there is a way up the peak from Hoodoo Pass. After studying it on the map, I confirmed my thinking that the West Ridge should be a direct and easy way up the peak. We would need to walk a little further to get to the summits of Switchback and Martin Peaks. Which wouldn’t be a problem if we got an early enough of a start. I had talked about doing the mile long scramble of the North Ridge that connects Mt. Bigelow to Raven Ridge near Hoodoo Peak and Libby Lake. Red Fred, Becky’s guidebook indicated that there is exposed class 4 climbing with little difficulties – possibly translating to needing a rope if one got off route. Turns out to be a lot longer than expected, but would make a great rambling traverse.
Looking fresh at the Buttermilk Creek Trailhead
Our mid-September weekend started early on Saturday morning with five of us piling gear and bodies into the Jeep for the trip east. I thought about another long stretch between scrambles and how out of shape I’d be as the 7 miles of the East Fork of Buttermilk Creek trail lay ahead. The trail starts at 4800 feet at wide switchback turn in the road from Twisp, we might have missed it had it not been for a car parked there. The first three miles of trail appears to be an abandoned road with the trees neatly trimmed back from the edge forming an almost perfect fire break. Following relatively close to the creek, the trail is a pleasant walk through the pine forest. Buttermilk Creek tumbles slowly toward the Twisp River and pools up around its gentle bends to nurture native trout, easily spotted in the crystal clear water. It is one of the few times I’ve seen so many trout so accessible to the trail. I wonder where they migrate to for the winter.
Clear trout pool in East Buttermilk Creek
The trail takes about 5.5 miles to meander up to 6800 feet to just below Hoodoo Pass and the Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness boundary. There are several interesting granite cliffs at the base of the pass that Thad decided needed an ascent and as we approached three large turkeys were startled into flight, causing my heart to skip a few beats. It is so unusual to see them and none of us were prepared with our cameras. The top of the pass is at 7400 feet gained by climbing a couple of short switch backs.
Thad works the problems at Hoodoo Pass
At the top we dumped our packs and started climbing the West Ridge of Mt. Bigelow. A large boulder hopping and scrambling exercise that took a little under 1.5 hours to gain the summit. We autographed the register and enjoyed the vistas. Pleasant views across to Raven Ridge and Hoodoo Peak made me want to send several weeks wondering these hills, but my schedule could only afford this short weekend. So I soaked in as much as I could, knowing that it would be snowing soon and scrambling would be over until there was enough snow to ski.
Climbing the final summit ridge on Mt. Bigelow
Craig and Woody on Bigelow Summit
It was already after 7 PM when we dropped back down on the arm and over the pass on to the south side’s large meadows and rolling hills. It looked like a rambler’s wonderland stretching toward the south and west. Tired from the hike and side trips on Mt. Bigelow, we camped in the upper meadows near a small spring.
Thad's special dinner attire at Hoodoo Pass
The weather report predicted a clear warm night, so I slept under a star filled sky. The moon rose over the eastern ramparts was so bright that it seemed like someone was shining a flashlight into my eyes. I just pulled the sleeping bag over my head and kept snoozing. I awoke at 6 AM and no one was stirring. Leaving camp our around 9:30, I realized we would pay for the late start later in the day, since climbing two peaks and getting back to the car would require walking 21 miles that day with the last six in the dark.
Martin and Switchback Peaks from near Boiling Lake
We headed south on the trail that passed our camp and then took a wrong trail toward the west that cost us about 2.5 extra miles and an hour of travel. After doubling back and finding the correct trail near Boiling Lake Camp we headed toward Switchback Peak above Cooney Lake which is to the east. Switchback is aptly named, with lots of them up the steep south trending face, winding through a large boulder field. Nothing technical, just hot. My idleness from the previous few weeks coupled with the heat was starting to show as I slowly ground toward the summit. From the top of Switchback Peak it is an interesting scramble over point 8086 to Martin Peak.
Craig on Switchback Summit
Thad on gemdarme near Switchback Summit
Nice large boulders made for an interesting climb of the ridge. Martin Peak’s summit was the smallest of the group and we found the summit register under a cairn. We down climbed the North Ridge which has an interesting narrow section that led to a notch and a talus field above the basin. We aimed for a moderate pass that the trail went over to connect back to the trail towards Boiling Lake.
Scramble buddies on Martin Summit
Pass above Boiling Lake looking toward Hoodoo Pass
Dusk was setting in as I walked the last portion of trail that curved toward the place we camped. A voice made a sound like it was whooping or calling to someone from across the valley. As I passed a lone clump of dense trees that he trail skirted I could hear a low growl or grunting sound. It sounded aggressive and I quickened my pace. Then the valley erupted with howls yelps and calls as a pack of coyotes or wolves began to make their way across the meadow. Several howls came from the trees. Hearing an animal growl without seeing it was one of the few times I have ever felt uncomfortable in the back country. If it was the wolf pack that was recently re-introduced or one from Canada, it forces us to be more careful and vigilant in how we store our food. I have been told that re-introduced animals do not fear humans the way that animals that have been hunted do.
Looking northwest toward Star and Oval Peaks
It was already getting on toward 6:30 PM and we still needed to walk out. Our slow pace combined with our late start would mean a late night. We started over Hoodoo Pass with headlamps ready at a blistering pace. I did not want to be the last one, so that required that I keep up with the main group. We walked to the car in less than 2.5 hours, about 10 minutes behind Will and Thad. Tired legs, but a great trip that finished the summer off with eight summits.